The Cairngorms: our arctic/alpine mountain range

Brenda Clough • July 17, 2019

The Cairngorms: our arctic/alpine mountain range

The Cairngorms is a fantastic place. The west coast has the drama and the sea views but the Gorms have this superb feeling of vast open spaces with views for miles. I have been there twice in the last couple of weeks. The first time with a group who, on one of those glorious June days, couldn’t believe that the average June temperature on the top of Cairngorm is only 2.4 degrees. On that day we were all sunburnt and the temperature must have been in the high teens on the hills and over 20 degrees in the valley.

The Cairngorms are of course internationally important for their arctic-alpine flora, flora that is really well adapted to being covered by snow for 6 months and then blasted by wind for the next 6 with the occasional day of hot sunshine to help dry it out. The creeping azalea is typical of a plant which is well adapted to these conditions. It has lovely small pink flowers at this time of year with dark green glossy leaves. It grows very slowly but as a dense cushion which allows the temperature inside the cushion to be up to 10 degrees warmer than outside. These plants and some others are at the very edge of their range in the Scottish mountains and climate change could signify their demise.

With the funicular railway out of action at present it was surprising how quiet the mountains were. This was slightly odd as you are not allowed out of the building if you go up by the railway anyway other than on a guided walk. On both visits we headed up the excellent Windy Ridge path on Cairngorm and on the first occasion turned right, over Cairngorm itself, then out to an excellent viewpoint down to Loch Avon above Stag Rocks before going up to Cairn Lochan where you almost felt you could touch Ben Macdui. The day was so good we then continued onto the top of Lurcher’s Crag and then found the faint but skitie path down the north west ridge from the bealach before enjoying crossing the massive boulder field in the Chalamain Gap. We then followed the very attractive path all the way back down to Loch Morlich.

The second walk was on a much cooler day and as we neared the top of the ridge the mist was still down on the summits so we took a quick bearing to make sure we didn’t miss the path down Ciste Mhearad to the foot of Loch Avon. The view down Loch Avon is just amazing and it’s a great privilege to be in such a remote and wild landscape with the Shelter Stone rock face towering up at the end of the loch. We then headed towards the Fords of Avon before veering back north with a short detour up Creag Mhor which boasts a couple of excellent rocky tors. Then it was back to Loch Morlich along the Larig an Laoigh, an ancient route between Aviemore and Braemar, passing the lovely Lochan Uaine or green lochan on the way. We only saw a dozen people all day on a fine summer Sunday until we reached the green lochan!

Whilst we’re called Perthshire Treks, we lead walks in the Cairngorms and other parts of the Highlands. We can do either of the walks described above or any other walks you might be interested in. Please get in touch to discuss your ideas.

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