Stones of the ascent
A lovely walk for a cold winter’s day or early spring follows an ancient route between Strathtay and Pitlochry. This walk can be extended by starting at Aberfeldy and following footpaths alongside the River Tay, Scotland’s largest river, before stopping for lunch or coffee at Grandtully then climbing up and along the ancient route to Pitlochry.
On this particular day, we did a there and back from Pitlochry which is good for the fitness as it involves over 500 metres of ascent and descent. Grandtully is a nice little village with several options for lunch or coffee & cakes – you have The Grandtully Hotel , The Inn On The Tay or the Highland Chocolatier . Or you can eat some sandwiches by the River Tay. Don’t feel guilty about a little indulgence – you’ll walk it off on your way back!!
The route leaves Pitlochry near the Festival Theatre. Once over the A9, the route follows a lovely old lane and path up the hill through fields and woodland with lovely views back across to the sunny (south) side of the valley. We can see our house on the opposite side as we climb the hill. Some of the old turf wall still exists along the side of the path, so you can picture what the path might have been like in ancient times.
As the path levels out at the top of the hill, you come across Clachan an Diridh (“stones of the ascent”), a bronze age stone circle. Just 3 of the original 4 stones now exist but, although it is now partly surrounded by plantation trees, they would have once stood proudly in open moorland. This is one of many such sites in an area which is rich in archaeology.
Beyond here, the views up the River Tay valley are stunning. The path across the moor eventually turns into a well defined path which meanders down the hill and through the little golf course at Strathtay – watch out for wayward golf balls! This course is typical of many such courses in the Highlands with a ‘honesty box’ for payment of the green fee (the course provides a good couple of hours of enjoyment but remember to stock up on golf balls!).
On reaching the village, you head to the bridge crossing the River Tay past some superb baronial style granite homes built by Dundee merchants and wealthy Victorians. From the bridge you can sometimes be lucky enough to watch canoeists taking part in practice or competitions down the rapids and it is quite possible you may even be watching a future Olympic champion!
After a chocolate fix or some lunch, the return is along the same route back to Pitlochry. The light and weather often change, so it feels like a different walk on the way back. You also have more time to enjoy the lovely views down into the Tummel valley.
